Down by the river…
“Eeeyoh! Hoh! Hoh!….Eeeeyoh! Hoh! Hoh!” At least that’s how I think you’d spell it. This was the noise that awakened me from sweet slumber at nearly 4 in the A.M. “This is it,” I thought in my early morning stupor, “They’re coming for me and all I have to defend myself is a soapstone candle holder and a limited Kiswahili vocabulary.” The chanting swelled louder and louder with each approaching step of the procession. “What on earth could this be? It’s so early. Did they finally figure out where the white guy lives and now it’s time to…who knows, burn his house down? Throw him a surprise party? Borrow his iPod?” It was obviously too early to think clearly. Imagine my relief as the voices soon started to dissipate, fading into the distance.
Later that morning, I consulted one of my friends from town and inquired about the early morning disruption. Reynold immediately knew what it was. As it turns out, this is the time of year when the young men of the Bukusu tribe are taken to be circumcised. This can occur anywhere between the ages of 12-18. As I understand it, from the explanation, the boy decides when he is ready and proceeds to put bells on his wrists which were passed down from his father and/or grandfather. Family and friends come from near and far for the ceremony. The young boy in front, leads the procession early in the morning shaking the bells in rhythm with a very serious look on his face (I guess I’d be all business too, knowing what lies ahead). So they continue like that, chanting and marching, all the way down to the river in the cool of the morning. He swims for a while in the cold, cold water in order to numb the body. After which, mud is spread all over him and a small plant is placed on top of his head.
He must stand very still looking straight ahead and brace himself for what is to come. How he endures the process is very important. If he cries, he is an embarrassment to his family, but if he’s able to bear the pain with nary a whimper he is celebrated and receives gifts. This can include money, a cow, etc. After giving me the rundown of how this ceremony plays out. Someone else told me that when he was very young he would run and hide under his bed when he heard processions like that moving through town. (I don’t blame him…not even a little.) This ceremony varies depending on which tribe is performing it, but more and more are moving away from the traditional practice and having it done in the hospital…at a much younger age. Some traditions should probably fall by the wayside, but that’s just this white man’s opinion.